Seeds & Berries
Only a few indigenous seeds and berries are used for tincture-making, but they form a therapeutically indispensable resource, generally being highly nutritive. Angelica and Lovage are usually used for their roots, but the seeds are usefully carminative and may be harvested in all respects the same as Fennel seed.
Celery seed, Apium graveolens – 1:2 60%, 14 days
The seeds of the wild celery are collected in late summer of the plant’s second year, just before they start to brown off. The whole umbel is removed and as much of the stalks as possible stripped off and discarded.
Should you find a cultivated celery running to seed, allow the seed heads to mature and prepare the same as Wild Celery. The result may be slightly inferior but still well worth having.
Chillie Peppers, Capsicum frutescens – 1:2 60%, 3 weeks
Chillies are easily grown in a greenhouse, polytunnel or even a warm sunny border provided they have been raised from seed under heat early in spring. A plant or two will yield a surprisingly good harvest. Handle with care at all stages, perhaps wearing gloves. Wait until the peppers are fully ripe (i.e. a deep, even red) and comminute the whole pepper including seeds finely, ideally in a food processor. Handle with care! If ripening is uneven, add to waiting menstruum in batches.
Capsicum minimum is quoted in nearly all herbal texts, but if it ever existed, you’ll never find it in a seed catalogue! No matter, C. frutescens, C. annuum in any number of cultivars abound in vegetable seed catalogues – simply choose a good red variety that scores high on the Scoville scale or the catalogue’s own ‘heat’ scale. Some compromise may be needed as the hottest chillies may take longer to grow and ripen than you are able to accommodate.
Echinacea seed, Echinacea spp. – 1:3 45%, 2-3 weeks
Echinacea seeds are less stimulating but more nutritive to the immune system than the root. Collecting them will not interfere with subsequent root production. Wait until the ray florets (outer petals) of the flowers fade and become papery in early autumn, and pluck off the whole head complete with calyx. Do not delay, as in the UK there is a risk of the seed heads becoming mildewed beyond this point. They will need to be passed through a garden shredder or at least quartered with a knife or secateurs before macerating.
In commerce the seed heads are not harvested separately – instead the whole aerial herb is harvested in flower: Echinacea is an expensive subject and this practice achieves a lot of ‘make-weight’ from the leaves & stems, although these parts have little or no therapeutic value. Echinacea purpurea yields the best results in the UK, but E. angustifolia, E. paradoxa, & E. pallida are all viable and near-identical as specific tinctures. (See also under Echinacea root).
Elderberries, Sambucus nigra – 1:2 35%, 14 days
Elderberries are usually ripe by late August. You’ll be lucky to find them ripening evenly – even on a single pannicle you may find both green berries and over-ripe, shrivelling ones, whilst any given tree may sport pannicles in varying states of maturity. It’s best to remove whole stems from the tree and strip each pannicle one at a time (the traditional tool for doing this is a dining fork), stripping off as much stalk as possible and discarding under- or over-ripe fruits (ripe ones are plump and purple). Elders usually fruit abundantly enough to get all you need in a single picking, but if the supply is limited there’s no harm in harvesting every few days to add to a waiting bucket or jar of ready-prepared menstruum, macerating for a fortnight after the last addition.
Elderberries are often used to make syrups or ‘robs’, or may be incorporated in a variety of syrup & linctus mixtures for coughs & colds. Elderflowers are also detailed in the ‘Flowers’ section. The bark or the leaves of Elder are sometimes used in external preparations, whilst an infusion of the leaves provides a useful insecticide.
Fennel seed, Foeniculum vulgare – 1:2 60%, 14 days
Fennel seeds are harvested in late summer just before fully ripe (i.e., before any significant browning off of the seeds is evident). The whole umbel is removed and as much of the stalk as possible pulled away and discarded. Fennel often produces a proportion of “blind” umbels, the seeds of which do not fully develop – avoid these.
Fennel leaves are also used occasionally.
Hawthorn berry, Crataegus monogyna – 1:1 or 1:2, 45%, 14 days
Hawthorn berries are harvested in late autumn when fully ripe. Ideally the deep red berries will have developed a distinct purple hue, will squash on squeezing and the flesh will have a pronounced sweet taste. They can be picked by the handful – a few leaves coming away with the berries will do no harm, but pick through before macerating to remove debris or anything that is blemished.
The tincture can be used to macerate Hawthorn flowers the following spring for a more concentrated and balanced product (or equally the flower tincture can be used to macerate the berries). Crataegus oxycanthoides is always quoted in textbooks but this is the old name for the relatively rare woodland Hawthorn, C. laevigata. You are more likely to encounter the ubiquitous C. monogyna in hedgerows. However, all species and even garden cultivars appear to yield satisfactory results.
Horse Chestnut fruits, Aesculus hippocastrum – 1:2 25%, 14 days
The fruits of the Horse Chestnut, none other than the ‘conkers’ of everybody’s childhood, are gathered from the ground, and the outer (green and prickly) casing removed. The fruits should have ripened to a chestnut colour (of course!) but should not have been lying around long enough to have become darkened and tough. Wash the ‘conkers’ thoroughly. The only comminution necessary is to ensure that all the fruits have been split open – the easiest way to achieve this is to place them in an old pillowcase, sack, or some such, and pound with a club hammer.
There is no discernible difference between the fruits of the red- or white-flowering Horse Chestnuts, but the fruits of the Spanish (‘Edible’) Chestnut are not used.
Juniper berries, Juniperus communis – 1:2 45%, 14 days
Alas, the demise of the gin industry has left few Juniper shrubs in southern Britain, but they can be found, whilst they remain more abundant in the North and Scotland. They are dioecious so berries are only found on female shrubs. Juniper berries ripen slowly so can be harvested at any time of year, though it’s usually done in autumn. Ripe berries are plump, purple and squash on squeezing. Obviously avoid immature berries or those that have started to shrivel. Go carefully – you may wish you were wearing chain-mail gloves as the spines of Juniper are vicious and yield their berries reluctantly.
Milk Thistle, Silybum marianum – 1:2 25%, 14 days
The seeds of the huge and hazardous Milk Thistle are harvested in early autumn as the seeds ripen. You can either slice the whole seed heads and pass them through a garden shredder, or you may prefer to transfer them to a warm place for a few days and then shake the seeds out. Either is a risky business unless wearing thorn-proof gloves.
Milk Thistle is commonly known as ‘Carduus’ to many practitioners in deference to the old synonym of Carduus marianus.
21 comments
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October 6, 2010 at 10:52 am
Erica Hollis
I am making a fresh rosehip tincture (1:3 33%) from my Rosa rugosa hips which are huge. Found I had to keep shaking it as the menstrum was becoming gelatinous and it is is proving equally thick to press out. I’m not sure if this means the R. rugosa hips are particularly high in pectin or if this is typical of rosehip tinctures.
October 22, 2011 at 12:58 pm
Deanne Pearson
Hello again. I wonder if anyone can give me some advice about hawthorn berries. I made a tincture in early September, when the berries were quite sweet and juicy, but hadn’t turned purpley. The tincture is sweet-tasting and a lovely light red colour. But I started to worry that I had tinctured them too early and have just picked more to remacerate – choosing the brightest, freshest-looking berries, as a lot were starting to look quite old and wrinkly. However, the ones I have picked do not not taste sweet like the ones I picked in September, in fact they seem rather dry/woolly and tasteless. My intuition tells me this isn’t going to make for a good medicine and that I should wait til spring and remacerate using flowers. Any thoughts from anyone as to whether using the berries now will do any good/harm (I can still do the flowers in spring, as well) would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!
January 25, 2013 at 10:46 pm
John
Whenever you wish to remove seeds of a Milk Thistle, you should give the cut heads a quick scorching over a fire, or with a blowtorch to remove all the sharp tips.
December 5, 2013 at 5:13 pm
Deanne Greenwood
Elderberries: Made the most delicious thick specific extract at 35% at the end of the summer. Just opened a litre bottle of it and it fizzed out like a shaken bottle of bubbly. When it had settled, I tasted it and it tastes fizzy, so has gone off I guess. No mould. Anyone have any ideas why this might have happened? I’m gutted to have lost all that lovely goodness. Never happened with anything else I’ve made. The elderberry syrup I made, which I’ve kept in the fridge, is still fine. Thanks.
December 10, 2013 at 10:30 am
herboscy
Hello Deanne. Ouch, that question again! Logically, the fault is mostly likely to be due to infection (before, during or after making it) or with formulation errors (easy to do, hard to believe afterwards!) Worth mentioning that we haven’t made elderberry preparations this year as there was so much wild yeast on the berries some had started to go over before the rest were fully ripe… and from your comment, if there’s no mould, this is more likely to be yeast than bacterial fermentation.
Stephen
December 10, 2013 at 3:52 pm
Deanne Greenwood
Thank you Stephen. Wasn’t aware of the wild yeast element, but as you say, is a more likely explanation than bacterial infection. How do you recognise it? I don’t recall seeing any yeast-like substances on the berries. In fact, they were strikingly fat and juicy, and healthy-looking. But I’m guessing you only need a few dodgy ones to ruin the whole batch (two-and-a-half litres, in this case!) Are there any other plants that can be affected in this way?
December 11, 2013 at 10:32 am
herboscy
I’ve only come across obvious wild yeasts on fruits & berries (yeasts like sugars to feed on, don’t they) – a pearly ‘bloom’ on plump fruits, or noticing that some or all of them seem to be shriveling or ‘going off’ prematurely.
Stephen
December 12, 2013 at 3:15 pm
Nick Jones
Not sure if the fermentation process would ruin the anti-viral properties of the berries, or reduce it’s antioxidant effect. Might not taste the same, however could still be a very efficacious remedy if not slightly more alcoholic.
December 19, 2013 at 6:08 pm
Deanne Pearson
Perhaps I shouldn’t have poured it down the sink…..
April 5, 2014 at 10:10 am
deannepearson
Morning herbies! Anyone have any thoughts regarding hawthorn berries and tincturing them when green? Have read that these contain highest level of OPCs. Presumably the ripe berries could then be macerated in the green berry tincture later in the year, for a more balanced formula? Would you/could you add flowers and leaves in as well…???
June 10, 2014 at 7:33 pm
natlyc
I’d think why not? do one batch of the green & the ripe and another with all 3 and see which one you like best. And then let us know!
October 6, 2014 at 8:03 pm
Spiralena
I collected some horse chestnuts and thought it’d be no biggie to tincture them, just as you’ve describe. In other readings online I found that the chestnuts have a toxic component. Is there reason to worry about this?
Thank you~
October 7, 2014 at 9:04 am
herboscy
Problems such as you may have seen detailed online relate to excessive doses. We never use more than 10 ml per week of the 1:2 tincture as described, (5 ml is usually enough) and have never encountered any adverse reactions to this very useful herb at this level.
Stephen
November 30, 2014 at 10:25 pm
rowan mconegal
Does anyone have any recipes for making marshmallows (i.e. the sweets!) from the fresh root? since i worked at baldwins I have never forgotten the divine scent of the powder that we used to sell….
December 4, 2014 at 2:12 pm
herboscy
Hello Rowan!
I researched this one yonks ago, and came up with nothing. The Romans knew how to do it, but failed to record how…. they were probably not the sticky, chewy stuff we know and love in modern times, which so far as I can make out are just sugar and gum arabic. Sorry!
Stephen
December 20, 2014 at 12:41 pm
Tim
Hello, I have a question tincture making question.
I have made 3 litres of hawthorn tincture this year, half with flowering top tincture from spring. This was a years supply for me @ 5ml twice daily.
My father (who suffers from heart failure) is now interested in trying hawthorn after a couple of years of persuasion.
I was planning on starting him @ 5ml twice daily of the fresh berry, obviously this will only last 6 months. Is it worth my starting my father on tincture made from dried berries (I already purchased, whole) @ 1:5, for the second 6 months? If I start the maceration now it will have 6 months to macerate if that makes any difference.
Obviously the plan will be to give him a fresh leaf, flower & berry tincture come next year.
Many thanks for your time & resource I seem to be reading from herbarium daily!
Tim
December 20, 2014 at 12:43 pm
Tim
Sorry that should read “is it worth continuing my father on tincture from dried haws”.
Cheers
Tim
December 21, 2014 at 2:14 pm
herboscy
Tincture from dried herb berries isn’t too bad. Should be able to make a 1:2 or 1:3 tincture to compensate for lower quality. I wouldn’t macerate for six months though – 3 weeks at the most.
Stephen
December 21, 2014 at 7:59 pm
Tim
Stephen, I really appreciate you getting back to me.
Great news, might I ask why 3 weeks at most? Is that just what you find works or will the tincture deteriorate after a certain time macerating?
Tim
December 22, 2014 at 12:10 pm
herboscy
Macerating for longer will only extract extra (unwanted) tannins, and is not the ideal if you’re interested in energetics either.
Stephen
December 22, 2014 at 11:40 pm
Tim
Thank you so Mmuch for the information. I really appreciate it.